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Domaine Lucien Crochet may be the top grower in the Sancerre village of Bué. That may not sound like much. How many of us obsess over the villages of Sancerre? How many can we even name? Chavignol, maybe, given its kimmeridgian limestone, superstar growers (the Cotats, Boulay and Vatan), and famously steep vineyards with memorable names (like 'Les Monts Damnés' or 'The Damned Mountains').
But Bué? Hardly a household name, despite its incredible terroir. Gently rolling hills of Griottes (Oxfordian limestone clay) and Caillotes (limestone gravels) make wines that have all the depth of minerality and vibrant acidity of a great Chavignol, but that also manage to drink younger.
How good are the wines of Domaine Lucien Crochet? When Eric Asimov did a Wines of the Times column on Sancerre a dozen years ago, Crochet's was his top pick. It even beat out the superstar Cotats. We think Crochet has only gone from strength to strength since then. And Chris Kissack, one of the best writers on the Loire Valley, says the Domaine is so good it's mere "presence... in the village... is clear testimony to the quality and potential of Bué’s vineyards and wines." Crochet is the benchmark.